Harris or Lewis

Just a heads up, you are in the Outer Hebrides. These are islands off the Scottish mainland. I know you noticed that the Scots have always  been a feisty lot. There is clan pride and grievances have been remembered, and acted on across the centuries. Having met our driver Angus,  you can see this pride lives on but is now directed at the country as a whole but don’t park on Angus’s grass or you may find out different.

Enough babble you say, what are we doing today. You are off to see  a stone ring ,butt of Lewis, blackhouses and those famous chessman. Let’s go.

I can see you’ve noticed, Scotland is showing its true self, light rain and Scottish mists.On this Island, Harris and Lewis are separated by a mountain range, crofters lived in houses known as Blackhouses. These were originally round with a central hole above the hearth to let the smoke out. As you can imagine, burning black peat and only a small hole, the inside of the house became black.
This style evolved into the more common longhouse style. An improvement because all that smoke caused illness and infant deaths. In this style the house sloped downwards from the sleeping area.

Animals were kept in the opposite end. So you had sleeping area, living area both with fireplaces, a narrow entrance area and then animal area. All very cosy and you get to walk upwards to your bed so don’t you go back to that gin place or you will be wobbly. Over the years electricity was added, the double stone walls were lined in the human side and you got a tap outside for water. You still used a communal toilet and a big metal tub on bath day. Aren’t you glad you have indoor plumbing. So were the elderly residents when they moved to an purpose built elderly community.

This was the case until the last people moved out  in 1976. Life was simple. You were part of a community. Everyone shared, no doors were closed. In the evening the men would gather and quite often sing. There was no music, just their voices in Gaelic.I videoed one of the men singing but the file won’t upload,sorry.. 

I mentioned you were off to see a stone circle. It’s too wet for you to dance around the Stones of Callanish. These have a centre circle ( possibly a burial site) then rows of stones forming a cross formation. Impressive.

They think the stone arrangement was linked to moon phases.

Onwards to Ness and the Butt of Lewis.

The scenery is stunning even in even in the rain. America is off in the distance from the lighthouse. Funny couldn’t see it…must be because of the sea mist and rain.🙂🤣

I have been reading Peter May’s books written with references to places on these islands. In one he talks of Chessmen, This is a reference to sets of chessmen carved in Norway in 12thCentury and discovered on the island from whale bones and horns. 6 of these are at present in the Heritage  centre at Stornaway.

The berserker chomping on his sword was my favourite but he hadn’t been loaned to the centre. The rest of the display is interesting. It is in the Lews castle which isn’t a real castle. Just a lovely building. Well that’s your lot. Another day tomorrow, sleep well and be ready for new adventures.