Hirosaki * Sixtyexpress

Japan

Now I hope you fully realise the sacrifices I make so you can experience new sights. Yesterday poured all day, but did I stay warm and cosy in the Ryokan lolling around in the onsen, no I was on the train to Hirosaki. A visit to the Tsugaru saw me looking at the magnificent floats they use for the Neputa Festival.

There are forty towns in this region that make these floats of up to 6 metres high. They are built of light wood and paper. The design is worked out on grid paper, a small model is built and then the final float. The paper is painted before being put on the frame. On one side will be fierce Samurai and on the other , a single female perhaps surrounded by flowers or children.In the past candles were used to light the floats resulting in a few fire accidents but now they are lit with electricity. The floats are pulled or carried and up to 80 floats may be in the parade. Up to 100 people may take part in moving the floats. The tradition dates back to the Endo period when poor Samurai made them to entertain and educate children.

The centre is home to craftsman workshops, displays of historical musical instruments ,gardens and the beautiful embroidery of the area. I bought a book so you can check out the stitching. Hemp was strengthened and thickened by the embroidery to make it warmer in the harsh winters here. 657 cm of snow on average…..more than in Switzerland or Siberia. Imagine walking around with feet bound in grass and reeds with just a few layers of cloth to keep you warm. I won’t complain about walking in the rain or being chilly or wet I am o r that I am desperate for coffee.

Instead I will continue,now Hirosaki castle is one of the few castles that is unchanged since it was built. The castle was built with a signal/guard post on four corners of a moat. Access across the moat was by bridge and the castle built so it was surrounded by gardens and open areas.When the moat needed repairs, a slab was prepared under the castle and then the castle was carefully lifted onto logs and rolled 70m so repairs could be done . Within the grounds are many cherry trees but no blossoms as yet.

From the castle, we made a brief stop at a centre that holds old floats. These were much more substantial models than those made of paper and wood today.

There are few of the original western colonial buildings left in Hirosaki most having been demolished to make way for more efficient buildings. One of the few is the library that is now being used by different groups and sits beside the new library building.

Now coffee, a few more interesting sights in the station and then back to the Ryokan. Here is the lute player as promised. I did stay awake and finish dinner in time. The music is twangy .